Archive for the 'stop over Ideas' Category

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Arugambay/PottuVille/Kudahs

Backpacking to theA?Kudahs

Day 3 and 4 of our backpacking trip saw us heading out from Pottuvil at 5:30am on Wednesday morning to reach Batticaloa around noon. Stuck for an alternative, the bus was a neat enough place to experience the sunrise from.

We went back to Thameemya??s to get some food, found a local barber and even got haircuts and shaves. Batticaloa town is colourful. It looks a lot like youa??re walking through an old south Indian movie. Continue reading ‘Arugambay/PottuVille/Kudahs’

Day 2 Arugam bay, Kudumbigala Monastery and Getting back to Batti

Arugam.info highly recommends the following, well researched traveler’s report
from innovative “sinhalaya travels“.
Note their slogan: …..A? “it’s hardcore, maan”…..

kudumbigaladagaba

kudumbigaladagaba

After a short hiatus we are back withA?more onA?our backpacking venture. Expect more posts on more travels in the near future. You can also view a short grainy video of our stay at Aa??Bay here.

Day 2 saw us still at Arugam Bay and wondering what to do next. Consulting the trusty Lonely Planet Guide it was found that there is a rock monastery built in the middle of the jungle many centuries ago. The place is called Kudumbigala and further searching on the internet provided us with more information on it. Lonely Planet had never been thereA?due toA?the area being closedA?in times of war. Naturally, we jumped at the chance.

Getting to the Monastery

The monastery is located roughly 30Kms down the road south of Arugam Bay. The road heads fromA? Arugam Bay to Panama, which is about 16 kms away. Continue reading ‘Day 2 Arugam bay, Kudumbigala Monastery and Getting back to Batti’

Lonely Beach near Arugambay

Also this most easterly point is the location of Sri Lanka's original Full Moon Party
If you are looking for a lonely but beautiful beach for camping, this is an ideal location. At Sangamankanda Point Generic zyprexa canada , I saw miles and miles of sandy beach and not a soul around. In fact this is known as the East most point in Sri Lanka.

This is close to Zyvox generic name Potuvil – Batticaloa (A4) road and it lies about 25km from Potuvil towards Akkaraipattu. The main road does not go close to the beach, so you have to turn towards the sea side and travel further 3-4 km on a gravel track. For the last bit, you may need to walk through an open land where there is no roads but only footpaths.

At the beach you will see an abondoned lighthouse. From there you will see endless beaches on both sides. One notable feature about Eastern beaches is that it has wider beaches than Southern or Western beaches. Here at Sangamankanda, the beach is over 100m wide.

This place is a real treat for a hiker!

source:

http://kirigalpoththa.blogspot.com/2009/03/lonely-beach-at-sangamankanda-point.html

Tea for Two at AbaY

Tea for two in Sri Lanka, the emerald isle with the sunshine coast

By Jenny Coad

Sleeping in the back of a Sri Lankan taxi is no easy task. Buses roar into view, their smiling drivers beeping blithely. Bicycles ignore cars brushing their backsides, pedestrians saunter across the road and dogs lie in the middle.

Exotic: The beach at Unawatuna, near Galle, Ski Lanka

Exotic: The beach at Unawatuna, near Galle, Ski Lanka

A bus aptly emblazoned with, ‘Jesus save us’ passes within a whisker. But the hair-raising driving is not the only reason to stay awake.

The ever-changing scenery provides more thrill than fear, from congested Kandy with its temples, great white Buddha and daring tuktuks, to the textured tea plantations in the Bogawantalawa Valley, a quilted landscape with sheer drops, lush vegetation and barrow loads of king coconuts.

I was last in Sri Lanka in 2002 with my friend Jess, who was studying in Kandy. We surfed in Arugam Bay, cycled the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, took long bus journeys and drank lots of milky tea (a ‘hug in a mug’). The people and the place left an impression. Continue reading ‘Tea for Two at AbaY’

Seven Day Road Tripa?? Kandy to Arugam Bay (Day one and day two)

Angela was surprised that I found her place on the Galaha Road up from the University of Peradeniya located just outside of Kandy. It is indeed a more remote area then what most travelers would find on their own.A? But her instructions were meticulous and the three wheeler driver I found at the Peradeniya Junction was able to get me to her green gate after a right turn at the Twelve Kilometer mark off Galaha Road.

I met Angela two years before on a trip to Yemen and she mentioned she had a home in Sri Lanka.A? Sri Lanka was on my short list of countries to visit so that is how I came to her place off Galaha Road.

Resting at Panama BeachResting at Panama Beach

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Angela has proposed we hire a car and driver and organize a short trip to the cultural triangle of Sri Lanka as well as to Arugam Bay.A? Arugam Bay was one of the areas hit by the 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami so it was interesting to see the redevelopment of this area as well as the communities south A?and north along the East coast.

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The first day started with a journey through Continue reading ‘Seven Day Road Tripa?? Kandy to Arugam Bay (Day one and day two)’

Arugam Bay, There and dragged back again

An excellent video clip!
and great, fitting sounds.

Produced by talented young Sri Lankans

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It looks like Jerrya??s clip (http://thejester100.wordpress.com/). The guys in the clip are me (www.indi.ca) and Halik (http://abdulhalik.wordpress.com/). I posted my impressions here:
http://indi.ca/2009/11/south-along-the-east-coast/

We love A-Bay very much, thanks for what youa??re doing

Remark from all of us atA? arugam.info: Purchase acivir suspension
Thank YOU – for your contribution and kind words!

(2)

Close to nature

By Sanath Weerasuriya

Haldumulla, though is not a popular tourist destination, is fast becoming a major transit point to Arugam Bay and Pottuvil in the Eastern Province. a??Mount Field Cottagea?? is the latest and the most modern addition to the area of mild weather. Located in the 20 acre land in the silent village of Haldumulla, beside of the Colombo- Badulla highway, Mount Field Cottage is an ideal place to spend a relaxed holiday.

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Just fourteen months old, a??Mount Field Cottagea?? has managed to attract the attention of Sri Lankan travellers with their nature friendly environment and luxury room service. The place is more popular with honeymooners throughout the year.

It has tastefully designed 15 cottages built towards the peak of the mountain with a panoramic view of mountains and surrounded by rock greeneries. In addition to the Cottages, main bungalow caters to luxury living. Continue reading ‘Close to nature’

Cruise ship to Arugam Bay?

The Island Newspaper

The Island Newspaper

The long anticipated Tourism boom is yet to arrive after the end of the Civil War in Sri Lanka. While we wholeheartedly want tourism to succeed and contribute to the National Economy, I would like to draw the attention of the general public and the authorities to a much neglected aspect of the tourism industry.

The locals are denied Cruise ship voyages and Theme Park entertainment right here in Sri Lanka unless they can afford to visit places like Singapore or Malaysia. Continue reading ‘Cruise ship to Arugam Bay?’

How to Go to Arugambay Pt.1

Friday, April 24, 2009

Arugambay Travel Guide 1 – How to Go

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When to visit:
Arugambay is full of foreigners during the surf season (June to August) but seems empty otherwise. While surfing is good, I prefer swimming. And what makes the off season bad for surfers (no waves) makes it great for swimming. The waves break really close to the shore so if you slightly beyond, you can just float for hours. Continue reading ‘How to Go to Arugambay Pt.1’

Obama feaver hits Arugam Bay

Obama Body Surf at AbaY?

Obama Body Surf at AbaY?

Sources indicate that our Facebook memberA? Obama Barrak is planning to unwind a few days in remote, peaceful Arugam Bay.

All is Swell in AbaY

All is Swell in AbaY

This hard working statesman will surely need rest and enjoy our true unspoiled nature.

Following the G20 success on London, the NATO summit in Stressbourg it is time to go Baden – Baden indeed.
The surf season has alreadyA? started, so beginner’s surf lessons for the two girls Sasha and Malia are also scheduled. They will be joining the first couple on their Easter school break at Colombia airport, Karamtunayukie.
Courtesy of Paddle4Relief, Taunton, UK.

Obama himself is said to be a keen Kite Surfer and close friend of expert Dillsiri.
Arugam Bay is – as well known – a true All-Year Destination.
Facebook sources confirm that this is what prompted him to be one of the first fans of the popular and growing “Arugam Surf” social networking site.A? Obama actually signed up and became an insider of AbaY a long time before he became president. A forward thinking man indeed!

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Arugam-Surf/34935689893?ref=share

On hearing the news, Arugam villagers are exited.
Will he be just on holiday/vacation?
After changing the world – will he be able to bring real changes to the Bay?
Will this wise power house of a man continue to ‘listen’?A? Talk just to the DS?
Or to some locals and and maybe even to the odd, side railed expat? What can we learn from past mistakes? Will he want toA? know how Mercy Corpse and the Whimpy Opera have Fooled the local and US public? Ever since April, 2005?
Will he help Order ditropan 5mg US to “Focus” forward in his unique style?
How can we bury the past?
Security issues prevent Order etodolac 300mg Arugam.info to reveal more details.
But we have been informed that Obama regardsA? the T & S New Year as an excellent opportunity to “Make a Change” .
!!One that even Sri Lanka people could believe in!!
Therefore, rumor has it that the two Presidents will have informal discussions at Temple TreesA? – orA? TisteStar during his vacation.
The “Bottom Line” is:
Will the “Tide be turned”?
Will our own, Hon.A? Mr. President allow his US counterpart to visit and gain impressions from thisA? underdeveloped, but fully ‘cleared’ Eastern area ?

Meanwhile, the villagers can only sit back and hope this historic visit not be canceled on security grounds.

Arugam Bay’s other attractions

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Arugambay

MAGUL MAHA VIHARA
Actoplus cost Between Buttala and Pottuvil and situated at Lahugala, famous for large herds of elephants even during the day, is the ancient Magul Maha Vihara built by King Dathusena between 516 -526 BC. Later, Vihara Maha Devi wife of the Parakrama brothers renovated the jungle covered shrine and installed one Order torsemide online

of the most exquisite moonstone carvings in Sri Lanka. The above information was found in a rock inscription dating back to the 14th century AD. You will be amazed by the extent of the ruins and their exquisite design.
Arugam Bay is well known among the serious surfing community, but the perfect wave is only one of its attractions. Dolphin pods, beloved of the local fisherman, often play in the bay, and the surrounding country is thick with wildlife, birds and extensive monastic ruins. Sastharvila, Kudumbigala, Muhudu Maha Vihara and

Tarulengala are ancient Buddhist ruins in the vicinity dating back from the timeless past. Nearby Okanda, an important (though isolated) Hindu shrine, is on the pilgrim route from Jaffna in the north to Kataragama. Okanda is also the gateway to famous Kumana Villu, where water birds nest, and the Yala east national park with miles of unexplored golden beaches.

http://negenahiraurumaya.blogspot.com/2009/03/arugambay.html

Okanda: Just 28km South of Arugam Bay

Ukanta Malai Velayudha Swami Temple, Okanda

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Teertham at Ukanta Malai
Teertham at Ukanta Malai
Pada Yatra pilgrims stand before Ukanta Malai Velayudha Swami Temple [16k]
Above: Pada Yatra pilgrims stand before Ukanta Malai Velayudha Swami Temple before offering service to excavate silted teerthams (below at left).

At the foothill ofA?A? Buy shallaking Okanda MalaiA?A?is theA?A?VA?A?lA?A?yuta CuvA?A?miA?A?orA?A?Kanta CuvA?A?mi Temple, dedicated to God Skanda. Here, like atA?A?Valli MalaiA?A?in India, Lord Murukan occupies the foot of the hill, while his sweetheart Valli occupies the peak. Symbolically, at theseA?A?sakti peethams, Lord Murukan accepts His position at the feet of Valli Amma, as Her servant and devotee.

Okanda Malai, a remote rock-hill on the coast at the intersection of the Eastern and Southern Provinces, has been referred by tradition as one of the places where Emperor Ravana halted for worship on his journeys from Lankapuri to Koneswaram. The theme of taking rest is reflected in the nameA?A?Ukantai, for it is said that here Lord Murukan and others ‘sat down’ (utkantA?A?r) and rested.

Okanda Hill top has by long tradition been cited as one of the places where a divineA?A?katirA?A?from Lord Skanda struck. Veddas preserved the sanctity of the place with a simple shrine of stick and ola leaves. According to another myth, the third ray from VA?A?kura Hill reached here and came to rest on this hilltop, making it a favorite site for Murukan worship. There is yet a third myth according to which, Valli and Murukan arrived in separate stone boats (which still rest on the beach) to reside on top of the Ukantai Malai. The temple is located along the eastern shores of the country, along which the pilgrims walk to KatirkA?A?mam. In places like PA?A?nama and Kumana, which are close to Ukantai, Tamils and Sinhalese lived in harmony even down to the present day.

Temple Structure
Valli Malai gets its name after the Valli Amman temple on this hillock. An image of PillayA?A?r and a VA?A?l are also found in this temple. The temple for Murukan is small and is only about three feet high. In front of this temple instead of Murukan’s vA?A?kanam the Mayil or peacock there is the rat or shrew, the vA?A?kanam for PillayA?A?r. Close to these temples is a platform under the tree with a fixed vA?A?l, and this may have been the original focus of worship.

In front of Valli Amman temple on top of the Valli Malai rock hillock are eight natural waterholes in the rock. One of these is referred to as Caravana Poikai; all are said to have been sunk during the Vanniyar rule. The entire hillock is said to have 32 natural waterholes, from which pilgrims traditionally draw tA?A?rtham water and pour it over themselves to obtain the blessings of goddess Valli who is believed to bath in the same pools, not only in ancient times but to this very day.

Worship
Regular pA?A?jas are conducted year round by the lone resident pA?A?cari and annual festivals are held for fifteen days; the last day falls on the new moon in July. The worship pattern is of folk tradition;t on the first day of the festival the flag is hoisted, but there is no Kotitambam.

During the procession, the VA?A?l is carried in a tray dressed in silk, and hence referred to as Pattu CA?A?mi. At the end of the water-cutting ceremony, the procession goes to Valli NA?A?cciyar shrine. Here milk rice is cooked by a few selected people and offered to the gods. Ascetics are said to reside in the hillocks scattered along the seashore. A prominent samA?A?dhi or final resting place is said to be the resting place of one of the famous ascetics who lived here.


It is noteworthy that at Okanda Malai, as atA?A?Valli MalaiA?A?in South India, Lord Skanda’s abode is at the foot of the hill while His divine sweetheart, Goddess Valli Amman, occupies the summit. This is as though to express silently the fact that at these divine places Lord Skanda places Himself at the feet of Valli Amman, whose station, as it were, is more exalted than that of Lord Skanda Himself.Even today, Okanda remains as a remote jungle shrine, in part due to its geographical location and partly due to the long ethnic conflict, which has made access to Okanda more difficult and even dangerous than ever. However, development work has resumed as of 1999, including the restoration of the ruined 20-mile jungle road from Panama the nearest inhabited village, and the immanent completion of a new temple for Lord VA?A?lA?A?yudha SwA?A?mi.

For information about efforts to preserve the sanctity of Okanda Malai and its traditions, see this detailed article by theA?A?Living Heritage TrustA?A?or go to the home page of theKataragama Devotees Trust.


Information on this page is taken fromA?A?
“Skanda-Murukan cult in Eastern Sri Lanka: Continuity and Change”A?A?by N. Shanmugalingam.
See also:A?A?
Sacred sites of Lanka map
Directory of Murugan Bhakti ashramsA?A?
home

Traditions
Features
Sacred Space
Research Articles
Resources

source:
http://www.kataragama.org/centers/okanda.

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Viceroy’s Phone dropped at Arugam Bay

Blurry Visions

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The train heading back home.

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Every now and then the sea demands an offering of some technology. A camera, iPod, phone, Poseidon wants something. Last time I dropped my phone in Arugam Bay. My camera has also been having recurring acid flashbacks. This time I flipped a jet ski in the Bentota River and lost my glasses. The curious thing about not being able to see far behind your nose is that it kinda makes one more kindly disposed towards people. EveryoneA?a??a??s a sort of warm and fuzzy blob and anyone getting within conversational distance gets a dumb smile until I can figure out who they are. I also find myself listening and thinking more. ItA?a??a??s an interesting altered state, for a while.

I could still take photos and then see the world in focus on that screen. That, alas, was also compromised because my camera is really screwed up and hallucinates these messy striations. But it was an interesting (office/conference) trip down south on the private Viceroy Train, then a day at Bentota. I was in the water most of the time at Bentota, but got some randomly interesting shots on the train.

The TrainA?a??a??s Crest, methinks

The Viceroy Special is a private train that you can charter. We chartered it for this GSMA AP Conference, and it was not charter at all. ItA?a??a??s A/CA?a??a??d and quite comfortable, and theyA?a??a??re serving you food and stuff throughout. I was sleepy on the way down, but on the way up it was really a quite pleasant way to travel.

ItA?a??a??s certainly more comfortable than the other means of travel, that being common train. Those are packed and hot and the foods not so good. I think the Railways Corp is actually a money losing enterprise as well.

As you can see from above, my camera now has a systematic problem with light. Certain levels cause it to spaz, giving these horizontal lines and striations. In this case the picture window is messed up, whereas the frame is not.

People live along the railtracks, in technically illegal shanties. You can see their houses stacked like matchboxes as you pass. People wash at shared taps and kids run about as you casually picture window through their backyards.

You can have coffee.

Get a lovely view of the sunset.

Through the lavatory window even.

Just after we passed Mount Lavinia a bomb exploded there, a minor one I hear. We got to Fort Railway station fine, though that place is still tinted with the memories of the rush-hour bomb not long ago. Colombo feels a bit still and there are unuttered stirrings in the north. Such is life. Sometimes its better to have your glasses off.

The rest of the photos are taggedA?A?A?a??E?viceroyA?a??a?? on Flickr.

source:
http://www.indi.ca/2008/09/blurry-visions/

Treehouse on the Lake

For you guys who wish to break the long journey to Arugam Bay:
Arugam.info
can recommend one more stopover, in the Middle of the island.

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…and here is the description, in the owner’s own words:

Lake View Lanka is a quiet, small and friendly srilankan homestay at Chandrika Lake. Just a short distance to the Uda Walawe National Park and the city of Embilipitiya.

Have a great experience sleeping in a basic tree house. The tree house includes a double bed with mosquito net and a small balcony offering the opportunity to relax and read a book, observe activities at the lakeside or enjoy a drink watching the beautiful sunsets over the lake.

There is also a brand new house with a surrounding terrace available. Stay close with a local lovely family. They will offer you excellent and fresh srilankan or western food.

One night at the treehouse is about 1000 Rs. and a night in their just finished guesthouse 2000 Rs. (for a spacious room with double bed and mosquito net).

A?A? Address: Nimal and Kumudu, New Town, Chandrika Wewa, Embilipitiya

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A?A? Directions: Turn left at the last crossing just before Centauria Hotel. Turn right before the lake.

A?A? Website: www.lakeviewlanka.com

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A?A? Other Contact: marco.haeusser@web.de, Mobile 0061 404647061

Watching out for the Tigers – in Ella

watch out for the tigers..

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Tuesday, Feb 26, 2008A?A?A?A?08:43

Entry 53 of 53 | show all | Cost of amaryl print this entry


So, the warning are out there, keep your eyes peeled.. The tigers are on the move.. The Tamil Tigers that is, bombs have killed close to 200 people here in Sri Lanka since the year has begun, and although things have quieted off a little now, trouble has struck all over the country..

It was a little disconcerting on one of my last evening in Hikkaduwa, when the regional authority decided to have a conference in the hotel opposite the dive shop I was working at, road blocks were set up, the AK’s were unpacked and police roamed the street on the lookout for the “evil” tigers..

All very mixed up I feel, why have a security sensitive event in your prime holiday destination, then why make all the local bars shut early so the ministers or officials can party till the sunrises (keeping me awake with the music).
But that is Sri Lanka at its best, short term gain over long term investment.. if something had happen during that conference, that would have been it for a long time, no one would want to visit..

Anyhow, IA?a??a??m out of Hikkaduwa for the time being, I say for the time being, because I have to head back there and pick up my rescue diver cert, passed the test and all the exercises, then the boss managed to run out of paperwork for me to fill out, so IA?a??a??ll have to head back and dot the iA?a??a??s and cross the tA?a??a??s..A?A? Up in the hill country currently and the weather has changed from the heat and humidity of the coast, a fresh chill now filters through the sky, itA?a??a??s the cleanest air that IA?a??a??ve even tasted, itA?a??a??s crisp and sharp, full of goodness..

Yala national park was visited, http://padayatra.org/yala.htm and also the FCO,
A?a??A?as well as coastal areas of Ampara district east of the A25 and A27 roads.A?A? We define the areas around Yala National Park as those east of the A2 and south of the A4.A?A? See the Terrorism and Local Travel sections of this advice for more details.A?a??A?

Eak! But it was worth it, even if we had to start an hour later because the army have to sweep the road for bombs, and by losing that hour in the morning we lost our main chance of spotting a leopard in the wild, although it was that wild out there really, hair raising around in a 4×4 land rover whilst 4 or 5 other vehicles all do the same, itA?a??a??s one hell of a noise that is kicked up.. The animal have to build up a tolerance to it, but only after time..

Breakfast time was a interesting, we stopped at the tourist rest area, which was made up of 3 concrete slabs and a plaque of remembers,A?A? 22 Japanese tourist were killed here when the tsunami struck, around 40 people in total were killed as the wave washed inland 1.5km.

We had a good day, besides the sore arse from bouncing about in the jeep for 6 hours..

Ella is somethingA?A? else though, up in the highest inn, run by an Aussie couple it has been a refreshing break from the usual faceless guesthouses that are on offer, they have turned the place into their home and warmly welcome guest, iggy popA?a??a??s A?a??A?a lust for lifeA?a??A? was bellowing from the hifi as we entered, what a luxury, music A?a??a?? loud music, music from back home.. itA?a??a??s weird how the small things make the difference..

More to follow..

We stayed at the Highest Inn, Ella

source:
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/jhnhtt/berlin/1204033380.html

Ayurveda

Sri Lanka In der Heimat der Heilslehre sind Anwendungen mehr als Wellness

BlA?A?tterzA?A?hlen im Ayurveda-Dickicht

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Von Stefan Nink

Die beiden links noch, dann bin ich mir ganz sicher, dass es 87 sind. Nicht 86 oder 88, und auch nicht 92, wie ich zwischenzeitlich mal meinte. Nein: 87. Man mag gar nicht glauben, wie kompliziert es sein kann, in einer Badewanne zu liegen und BlA?A?tter zu zA?A?hlen. Das soll ich aber, damit ich nicht einnicke. Als ob diese Gefahr jemals bestehen kA?A?nnte! Das Badewasser wirft gleich BlA?A?schen, so heiA?A? ist es, und stA?A?ndig lA?A?uft mir das A?a??l in die Augen, mit dem mein Kopf eben noch massiert wurde. AuA?A?erdem piekst das Spinatzeugs, in das sie mich gepackt haben. Ich versuche, mit dem groA?A?en Zeh ein Loch in das KrA?A?uterdickicht an der WasseroberflA?A?che zu stoA?A?en. KA?A?hler wird es dadurch nicht. Zur Ablenkung kontrolliere ich noch mal das Ergebnis der ayurvedischen Algebra.

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Dass ich die BlA?A?tter des Bhodibaums zA?A?hlen soll, dessen dA?A?rres GeA?A?st A?A?ber der Wanne kront, hat der Doc empfohlen. Lord Buddha habe das auch getan. Ich dachte, der Erleuchtete habe unter einem Baum meditiert. Dass er wie ich auf kleiner Flamme gegart worden war, wusste ich nicht. Was ich aber weiA?A?, ist: Der erste Anwendungstag ist gleich vorbei, ich darf sein Ende nur nicht verschlafen.

Wenn Sie beim Stichwort “Ayurveda” von Massagen im FA?A?nf-Sterne-Resort trA?A?umen, von samtenen A?a??len und regenbogenfarbenen Gesundheits-Cocktails, die ihnen Kellner zusammen mit frischen FlauschhandtA?A?chern an den Pool bringen, wenn Sie an Duftkerzen denken und an “CafA?A? del Mar”-KlA?A?nge – eben all das, was Ihnen Frauenzeitschriften penetrant als Ayurveda verkaufen -, dann erwartet Sie hier eine unsanfte Landung in der RealitA?A?t. Das “Siddhalepa Ayurveda Health Resort” in Sri Lanka ist alles andere als ein WohlfA?A?hl-Tempel, eher der HotelgeschA?A?ftszweig des berA?A?hmtesten Ayurveda-Familienunternehmens im Land. Die Hettigodas beschA?A?ftigen sich seit mehr als 200 Jahren mit nichts anderem als mit der “Lehre vom Wissen des Lebens”. Man kann sich vorstellen, dass ihnen ayurvedische Kleidungs- und Einrichtungstipps in deutschen Lifestylemagazinen egal sind.

ZunA?A?chst bekommt jeder eine kurze EinfA?A?hrung in die Lehre vom Vid (Wissen) des Ayu (Leben). Der Doc sieht aus wie aus einem Sri-Lanka-Bildband: asketische Gestalt, markante GesichtszA?A?ge, eisgraues Haar. Und ganz traurige Augen hat er, da passt es gut, dass er erst einmal seufzt: Ayurveda erklA?A?ren? UnmA?A?glich! Nach 35 Jahren Berufserfahrung kA?A?nne er vielleicht die GrundzA?A?ge der Lehre beschreiben, mehr nicht: ,Jeder Mensch hat ein bestimmtes VerhA?A?ltnis der drei Lebensenergien Vata, Pitta und Kapha in sich. Ist dieses VerhA?A?ltnis gestA?A?rt, wird er krank. Ayurveda versucht, das ursprA?A?ngliche Gleichgewicht wiederherzustellen.” Er seufzt noch einmal, als wisse er nicht genau, was er mit mir anfangen soll. Weil ich aber nun schon mal da bin, stellt er mir Fragen zu meinem Befinden.

Dann misst er fA?A?r eine Minute den Puls und diagnostiziert: “Sie sind ein Kapha-Typ, davon ist am meisten in Ihnen. Vom Moment, als Sie aus dem Mutterleib kamen, bis zu jenem Tag, an dem man Sie sechs FuA?A? tief unter die Erde schaufelt.” Und das bedeutet? Der Arzt schaut traurig. “Sie sind ein wenig behA?A?big. Bleiben lieber sitzen, als zu laufen. Nehmen sehr schnell sehr viel zu. Sind maA?A?los beim Essen. Beim Trinken auch. Und auch beim . . .” Stopp! Es reicht! Was tun wir dagegen? Die Antwort wird von einem besonders traurigen Blick untermalt: “Man kann nichts dagegen tun. Sie sind und bleiben Kapha. Zurzeit sind Sie allerdings ziemlich aufgedreht, weil das Vata auA?A?er Kontrolle ist. Das dA?A?mpfen wir. Ansonsten lassen wir alles, wie es ist.”

In meinem Fall geht das Vata-DA?A?mpfen wie folgt: Zuerst wird mein Kopf massiert, bis ich es tief drinnen im Hirn knacksen hA?A?re. AnschlieA?A?end wird etwa ein Barrel A?a??l in meinen KA?A?rper geknetet. Und dann muss ich raus auf einen Steinweg, zum Umherwandeln. Ein bA?A?ser Architekt hat Zehntausende Kiesel in den Boden einfA?A?gen lassen, die alle mit ihrer spitzen Seite nach oben schauen. Das Umherwandeln tut hA?A?llisch weh, was mich aufregt und eigentlich kontraindiziert sein mA?A?sste. Aber die werden schon wissen, was sie tun – oder mich tun lassen.

Wie der FuA?A?weg ist die komplette Anlage nach ayurvedischen Gesichtspunkten gebaut. Die Pfade zwischen Blumen und Palmen beispielsweise folgen verwirrenden Kurven, damit sich die GA?A?ste auf den Weg konzentrieren mA?A?ssen und so den Stress vergessen, den sie zurA?A?cklieA?A?en, als sie hierherkamen. Am rundlich geschwungenen Pool, den ich mit Geborgenheit assoziiere, liegt ein deutsches PA?A?rchen. Er liest ihr aus dem “Herrn der Ringe” vor. Ich bin sicher, dass sie lA?A?ngst eingeschlafen ist.

Wie ein Fantasy-Roman hA?A?rt sich auch die Geschichte des Unternehmens an, in dessen Resort unser Feintuning A?A?berholt wird. Asoka Hettigoda erzA?A?hlt sie, Tochter des Chefs, eine zierliche, quirlige Frau, deren ayurvedischer Dreiklang ihr offenbar ein Charisma bis knapp unter die Haarwurzeln beschert . Asoka erzA?A?hlt, wie ihr UrurgroA?A?vater auf der Suche nach Weisheit in den Himalaja pilgerte. Wie er dort einen Yogi traf, der ihm die Rezeptur eines heilenden Balsams anvertraute. Wie der Yogi prophezeite, UrurgroA?A?vater werde ein VermA?A?gen mit dem Balsam verdienen. Zum Dank solle er die HA?A?lfte des Gewinns an die Armen geben. Asoka erzA?A?hlt, wie die Hettigodas seitdem 50 Prozent aus dem VerkaufserlA?A?s jenes Balsams spenden. Bis heute.

Sollte man ihre Geschichte fA?A?r eine zauberhaft gewebte Firmenlegende halten und diese A?A?berlegung versehentlich offen aussprechen, dann packt einen Anoka ins Auto und fA?A?hrt A?A?ber StraA?A?en voller Menschen, hupender Autos und auf dem Mittelstreifen meditierender KA?A?he hinaus nach Mount Lavinia. Dort haben die Hettigodas ein Ayurveda-Krankenhaus gebaut. Die Behandlung ist fA?A?r alle kostenlos. “Das hat der Yogi damals gemeint”, sagt sie und beginnt, mit jedem Patienten im Wartezimmer zu plaudern. Wie gut, dass ich behA?A?biger Kapha-Typ bin, der lieber gemA?A?tlich rumsitzt und zuhA?A?rt als aufgeregt auf spitzen Steinen zu wandeln.

Die Sprache der Einheimischen klingt A?A?brigens, als kA?A?men aus dem Mund Murmeln gerollt, ganz viele und ganz schnell, ein ganzer Sack voll bei jedem Satz. Lustigerweise sieht die Schrift auch so aus: Viele knubbelige, runde Kringel purzeln neben- und A?A?bereinander Richtung Satzende. Und erst die Namen! “Belimal, Ashwaganda Arishtaya, Dasamoola Ariwaya”. Was sich fA?A?r europA?A?ische Ohren wie eine BeschwA?A?rungsformel anhA?A?rt, sind die Zutaten fA?A?r den Cocktail des Abends, den “Herbal Dream”. Balan Pushpendran mixt ihn, der Chefkoch des Resorts. Mittags und abends taucht er am BA?A?fett auf und kontrolliert, wer was isst, denn Kapha-Menschen wie ich brauchen natA?A?rlich andere Speisen als Pitta-Wesen. Wenn Balan merkt, dass es einem schmeckt, lA?A?dt er fA?A?r den nA?A?chsten Morgen zum Ayurveda-Kochkurs in seine KA?A?che ein. Da lernt man dann, dass CurryblA?A?tter gut gegen einen hohen Cholesterinspiegel sind, scharfe Chilis dagegen keinen positiven Effekt haben. Die ayurvedische KA?A?che macht kein groA?A?es Geheimnis um ihre Kunst: vegetarisch, ein Curry als Basis, variiert mit GemA?A?sen und immer wechselnden GewA?A?rzen. “Zimt!”, ruft Balan, sei ganz wichtig fA?A?r seine Kreationen und auf Deutsch so ein schA?A?nes Wort. Er mischt den Zimt in ein Okra-Curry und reicht einen ProbierlA?A?ffel weiter. Himmlisch!

Das ist das Besondere an einem Aufenthalt im “Siddhalepa Ayurveda Health Resort”: Man darf, ach was, man soll hinter die Kulissen schauen. In Balans KA?A?che, in den KrA?A?utergarten und in die Fabrik der Hettigodas, in der 1500 Angestellte aus 800 verschiedenen KrA?A?utern ayurvedische Produkte herstellen, die ihnen landesweit fast 3000 Zulieferer lastwagenweise herankarren. Dr. Weerasingha ist 87 und so etwas wie der Spiritual Rector des Unternehmens. In der Hand hA?A?lt er ein Curryblatt und sagt mit leiser Stimme: “Sehen Sie sich dieses Blatt genau an! Haben Sie es betrachtet?” Habe ich, es ist ein Curryblatt, eindeutig. Das stimme, sagt Dr. Weerasingha, aber natA?A?rlich sei Blatt nicht gleich Blatt. “Zu welcher Jahreszeit wurde es gepflA?A?ckt? FrA?A?h morgens oder in der Mittagshitze? In welcher Klimazone stand der Strauch? Wie alt war er? Nein, sagt er, man kA?A?nne nicht einfach ein beliebiges Curryblatt nehmen und es zusammen mit 54 anderen Substanzen zu einem MassageA?A?l verarbeiten. “Es gibt sehr detaillierte, bis zu 3000 Jahre alte Vorschriften zu diesem Blatt. Und Ihr im Westen bietet Kurse an, in denen man Ayurveda A?A?bers Wochenende lernen kann.” Dr. Weerasingha keckert leise. Dann verabschiedet er sich und schlurft zurA?A?ck ins BA?A?ro. Sein Lachen bleibt noch ein paar Sekunden in der Luft hA?A?ngen. Es vermischt sich mit dem Geruch von Tamarinde und Nelken.

Im Resort wartet der traurig dreinblickende Ayurveda-Arzt auf mich. Er misst den Blutdruck und scheint sehr zufrieden zu sein. Offensichtlich haben wir dieses aufmA?A?pfige Vata in seine Schranken gewiesen. Wie lange ich denn noch bleiben sollte?, mA?A?chte ich wissen. Er nickt und verschreibt weitere Massagen, WandelgA?A?nge und BA?A?der. Und er ermahnt mich: “Zwischen den Behandlungen machen Sie bitte nichts. Keine Interviews. Keine Recherchen. A?A?berhaupt nichts.” Er ahnt, was ich antworten mA?A?chte, und bevor ich ein Wort rausgebracht habe, wird er kategorisch: “Nein! Das Notebook bleibt aus. Achten Sie lieber auf die Stille. HA?A?ren Sie auf das Rascheln der Palmen, lauschen Sie dem Meer, lernen Sie, die Vogelarten auseinanderzuhalten! Und zA?A?hlen Sie die BlA?A?tter des Bodhibaumes A?A?ber der Badewanne!” Und wenn ich schon weiA?A?, dass es 87 sind? Er lA?A?chelt milde. “Ich bin sicher, dass Sie sich verzA?A?hlt haben.”

erschienen am 17. November 2007
Quelle:
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